Few battles are greater than the one we fight as our skin transitions from summer into winter. From dryness and sensitivity to breakouts and lacklustre texture, our skin is begging for some much-needed attention as the temperatures drop.
Although tricky, the transitional season is not the time to panic but to take stock of your existing routine and deal with the environmentally induced skin concerns that may be affecting you. Should you be boosting hydration, combatting breakouts or adjusting the frequency of active ingredients? Due to how sensitive and fickle skin can be in the cold season, active ingredients, such as retinoids, AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids) and vitamin C, can tend to feel too harsh when the seasons change if used with the same frequency. It’s important to know what to keep and what to switch out, as well as to consider adapting formulations, lowering concentrations, reducing frequency and pairing up with rich, hydrating moisturisers and the appropriate sun protection factor (SPF).
Whether you need to cut down and streamline your arsenal, or bolster up defences with increased hydration and soothing ingredients, our guide has just the thing to help you navigate the new season and changing climate like a pro.
5 ways to transitional skincare

It’s time for a cold reset with winter skincare habits your face will thank you for.
- Do switch to richer moisturisers: Retire lightweight moisturisers and swap them out for richer creams or barrier-supporting lotions to prevent dry skin in cold weather.
- Don’t over-exfoliate: Reduce the frequency of strong exfoliants or switch to gentler options to avoid irritation and skin damage.
- Do increase hydration: Failing to add humectants or barrier-supporting ingredients can make skin feel tight and irritated, so look for ingredients like hyaluronic acid to help maintain and boost moisture levels.
- Don’t skip SPF: UV rays can still cause damage in winter, so keep up regular sunscreen application, even in cooler, overcast weather.
- Do adjust cleansers: Harsh or foaming cleansers can strip the skin of much-needed oils during colder months. Switch to gentle cleansing to maintain clean skin without stripping essential oils.
Editor’s Tip: Take advantage of winter, when there is less sun exposure and time outdoors, to go for professional treatments like chemical peels. These will help to address concerns like pigmentation, uneven skin tone and texture — the season provides the perfect conditions for skin to heal without excessive photosensitivity.
5 common acne myths, debunked!
- Acne is caused by poor hygiene. Truth: Acne is mostly caused by clogged pores, bacteria, and hormones — not dirt. Over-cleansing can actually make it worse.
- Only teenagers get acne. Truth: Acne can affect adults too, especially in their 20s, 30s, 40s, and beyond.
- Eating chocolate or greasy foods causes acne. Truth: Diet doesn’t directly cause acne, though high-glycaemic foods or dairy may trigger breakouts in some people.
- Popping pimples helps them heal faster. Truth: This can worsen inflammation, push bacteria deeper into the skin, and cause scarring.
- Acne will go away on its own and doesn’t need treatment. Truth: Early treatment helps reduce breakouts, prevent scarring and manage post-inflammatory pigmentation.
Acne 101: Expert advice

Dr Bradley Wagemaker, medical director at Lamelle Research Laboratories, shares the best course of action for understanding and treating acne.
How has the treatment of acne evolved over the years?
Acne treatment has evolved significantly over the years, moving from basic, harsh approaches to more targeted, science-based strategies. Past treatments and early methods often relied on harsh soaps, abrasive scrubs, or high-dose antibiotics, which could strip the skin, irritate it and sometimes cause resistance or long-term damage. Today, the modern approach is treatments that focus on understanding the root causes — like sebum overproduction, clogged follicles, C. acnes bacteria, and inflammation — while protecting the skin barrier. We now use topical retinoids, gentle exfoliants (AHAs/BHAs/PHAs), antioxidants, and pigmentation-correcting ingredients in combination for safer, more effective results.
What are the main types of acne and which ingredients are best to treat them?
1. Comedonal acne (whiteheads and blackheads, clogged pores without much inflammation). Treat with Salicylic acid (BHA) that exfoliates inside the pores, Retinoids to normalise cell turnover and prevent clogging, and Niacinamide to help regulate sebum and calm irritation.
2. Inflammatory acne (papules and pustules, red, swollen spots). Treat with benzoyl peroxide that kills acne-causing bacteria (C. acnes), Azelaic acid to reduce inflammation and bacterial growth, and Niacinamide to calm redness and inflammation.
3. Nodulocystic acne (deep, painful nodules and cysts). Treat with topical or oral retinoids to help prevent new lesions. Benzoyl peroxide or antibiotics (short-term use) to reduce bacteria and Azelaic acid to reduce inflammation and help prevent scarring.
4. Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH) (dark spots after acne). Treat with Niacinamide to even out skin tone, Azelaic acid which lightens dark marks, and Tranexamic acid that inhibits melanin overproduction.
What are the most surprising triggers and causes of acne that people often overlook?
Stress increases hormones like cortisol that can worsen breakouts. Hormonal fluctuations, even in adults, such as monthly cycles or menopause, can trigger acne. Skin barrier damage from over-exfoliating or using harsh products can worsen inflammation and clog pores. Certain medications such as steroids, some antidepressants, and hormonal treatments can contribute to breakouts. Cosmetic products such as heavy or comedogenic makeup and skincare can block pores. Diet triggers such as high-glycemic foods, dairy, or excessive sugar, while not always a direct cause, may aggravate acne in some people. Environmental factors such as pollution, humidity or sweating can clog pores and increase irritation.
6 of the best: Skin saviours

- Bioderma Photoderm XDefense Ultra Fluid SPF50+ Invisible 40ml, R385
- Lamelle Serra Soothing Cream 50ml, R905
- Rubi Blemish Patches, R169
- Dermalogica Daily Microfoliant 75g, R1,649
- The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 Hydrating Serum 30ml, R230
- Sel:ph Barrier Boosting Microdose Super Concentrate, R429
First published in Sunday Times Lifestyle.













